Thursday, August 4, 2011

sorbetto: day 4

We've cut everything out, done our darts, pleat and side seams. How did you finish your seams?

Now we're on to the bias binding.  First up, the neckline.

Get out that lovely bias tape, bought or made, and a bunch of pins.
Turn your top to the wrong side and start pinning the RIGHT side of the tape around the neckline.  Since it's on a curve you may have to use more pins that normal.

Make sure to leave a couple inches unpinned, forming a gap, plus a couple of inches of bias tape on each side of the gap.

Take to the machine and sew it up, leaving the gap unsewn.  (I did mine at 1/8" at first, but it was too close to the edge, and my fabric was unraveling.  So, I did another one at 1/4".  Do whichever works for you, as both are fine.)
I give my bias tape a smidge stretch as I make sure it's lined up with the edges

Now, about those little tails...Grab them like below, we are going to sew them together.  See the left edge of my thumb? That is where we're going to sew, vertically on that strip.

Once you have that sewn, take and press the seam open, and pink to prevent unraveling.  Now, see how there is no seam over the pinked edge/gap?  Back to the machine we go to put a seam over that, closing the gap.  (Dang unraveling linen, jeez.)

Our next step is...more pressing!  Of course, haha. Press the your seam all around.

We're about to flip this bias under on itself, so we want to get a nice, neat edge.
Fold the tape, making the fold on the line of stitches you just sewed. (It's real scientific and all, but it helps to wet your fingers and maneuver the fabric in place.)  Then press again. See how neat the edge is?

Then fold the tape under itself all around, and press again.

Take to the machine and sew close to the edge, press all around. And this is what you should have!

Whew.  Ok, any questions?  Next up...same exact thing on the armholes, woohoo!  (Sorry, it's late, I may be delirious)

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